Happy New Year from Rahai'i Pangun Jungle River Cruises

Exotic Serenity

Evenings are the perfect time for filming along the river and in the maze of narrow canals and ox bow lakes created by the ever meandering river changing its course.

Fed by the monsoon rains, the waters in the lakes are pure black, leached through the fallen leaves of the swamp forests and the ancient peat of the Central Kalimantan lowlands. The black water creates the perfect glassy surface for reflections at once breath-taking and mysterious. Sometimes, looking at the reflections side on, great forest spirits appear to live in the dense foliage. Deer are native to the forests of Borneo, and in the trompe d'oeil here, appears to be decked with antlers.

Indonesian Governors' wives enjoy cruise

A sparkling December day welcomed a group of Indonesian Governors' wives to Tangkiling for a cruise aboard the Rahai'i Pangun on the Rungan River.

The wife of Kalteng Governor, Bpk Teras Narang, with Ibu Fauzi, wife of the Jakarta Governor, led the party onto the boat for their short cruise around Pulau Kaja, a river island used by the Borneo Orangutan Survival (BOS) Foundation for the pre-release of orangutans in the later stages of rehabilitation. Accompanied by Aldrianto of the BOS Foundation, the women were delighted to see a group of mothers and babies at one of the feeding stations on the island.

While cruising, the guests enjoyed a feast of local delicacies, including marinated giant river prawns, lemon grass sambal, local grilled river fish, steamed river fish in coconut and turmeric, and the jungle fern, kolokai, cooked with mushrooms.

Metro TV shoots on board the Rahai'i Pangun

Mid November saw the arrival of Metro TV anchor woman, Virgie Baker, to film a segment for her very popular weekly travelogue, Virgie's Travel Guide.

After reporting and reading the news on this major Indonesian network, Virgie is now working with independent Director-Producer Deyna Haryanto of Jiwa Creation, to produce an energetic look at the variety of tourist destinations right across the Indonesian archipelago.

Just finished filming in Nias and Bali, the team arrived fresh in Palangkaraya to explore the treasures of the Museum and later to stay overnight in a jungle cabin at the Eco Village. The next 2 days were spent on the boat, cruising the placid waters of the Rungan River, passing orangutan islands and enjoying the great food.

Finishing their trip at Bukit Rawi on the rain swollen Kahayan River, the team were treated to a spectacular dance display on the wooden jetty. To the flickering lights of the bamboo flares and the company of many residents of this small riverside kampung, the team had a colourful farewell.

If you are in Indonesia, look out for Virgie's Kalimantan segment on Saturday morning at 9 am on Metro TV on 28 November and 5 December.

Tundai home stay experience

TUNDAI HOME STAY

3 days 2 nights

Live with a family in a traditional isolated fishing village


Only accessible by boat, Tundai is about 2 hours south of Palangkaraya by klotok or traditional canoe and covers an area of 4,250 hectares. The stilt village is built on swampy land, which is inundated by black water in the rain season, when you walk on board walks and bridges. No roads access this village, and power is from solar cells.

This quiet and beautiful place opens its door to visitors for short stays. You will be hosted by the home owners, who will bring you to and from the village by canoe from the nearest port (Bukit Pinang), give you simple sleeping accommodation and all your food (max 2 guests per house).

Your program includes meeting villagers and accompanying them in their daily activities and joining them in games and music. Also, by canoe, you will visit nearby forests for animal spotting, including proboscis monkeys, macques, and birds all year round.

In the wet season only, October-May, it is possible to see wild orangutans on a special canoe trip – this trip is extra cost Rp 150,000, payable directly to your host. You will go one person per canoe only.

Japanese guidebook features Rahai'i Pangun cruises

Japanese travel writer, Konno Masao, joined us on a cruise earlier this year. His enjoyment of the experience led him to recommend visiting us. The pictures in this page from the Globe Trotter Travel Guidebook (Chikyuu no Arukikata) are all taken from the Rahai'i Pangun experience.

Visiting the Pasar Ramadhan

The fasting month of Ramadhan is half way through now, and the afternoon and evening market or 'pasar' selling sweet and savoury delicacies to 'buka puasa' or break the fast and to enjoy for supper in the evening is in full swing. We stop by every evening to pick up a different selection, all sold in small amounts.

Mass tiwah in Palangkaraya

Every year the Government of Central Kalimantan sponsors a huge 'tiwah' ritual for Dayak families who could not otherwise afford to have this ceremony to release their ancestors souls on their journey to the 'Prosperous Village' in the upper world.

The traditional Dayak religion, Hindu Kaharingan, requires that the family of status ancestors perform the tiwah, not only for the ancestors to be released from the state of wandering spirits in this world, but also to being merit and good fortune on the surviving family members.

The burden of costs of this ceremony are huge, and are largely related to the carving of the sapundu or totem pole with the servant to join the ancestor, to the purchase of sacrificial animals, for the ceremonial blood spilling and feeding of the great numbers of invited guests, and most importantly, for the hire of the Kaharingan expert to conduct the ceremony correctly. Great supernatural risk is taken on by engaging in the tiwah and by building the sandung or wooden mausoleum, that the riitual practices must be followed exactly by ritual specialists.

From the disinterring of the bones, their cleaning and perfuming, to the extraordinary gentleness and respect with which the sacrificial animals are prepared, to the raising of the totems, where the beasts are tied, and the final placement of the bones in the mausoleum (which may be distant from the tiwah site and near the ancestors houses), everything is done according to ritual.

The centre piece of the event is the place where massed bamboo poles are decorated with a yellow skirt and festooned with yellow and batik banners. Yellow is the colour which represents the spiritual world, and will attract the good spirits, who gather to prevent disturbances and protect the ceremony. The totem pole with the ugly face painted below is also designed to scare away disruptive spirits.

Independence Day in Tundai village

17th August Independence Day in Indonesia is always celebrated with great gusto. During our recent cruise, we happened to visit Tundai on Independence Day, and greatly enjoyed the Besei Kambe competition. This event pits 2 teams of 2 paddlers rowing in opposite directions in the same canoe. Causing great hilarity in all the on lookers, the competitors nevertheless put everything into their performance.

The celebrations, the biggest ever in the village, were covered by a reporter from the local Palangkaraya broadsheet, Detak. This is what they said :

On the celebration of Independence Day last week, the tiny village of Tundai held the biggest celebration ever in the village. Many traditional games were competed such as Besei Tali (tug of war), Bese Kambe (canoe paddling), Sepak Sawut (fireball) and art performance on the stage.

This event was not only attracted the local people’s enthusiasm but also foreign tourists.

We interviewed an Italian Tourist, Ms. S who came to visit Kalimantan together with her husband. They are accompanied by Ms. Gaye Thavisin, joint owner of the Rahai’i Pangun (a cruise boat operated by Kalimantan Tour Destinations)

Detak : 'Hallo Ms. S, how long have you been in Palangkaraya?'

Ms S : 'This is my first time coming to Kalimantan and now is our 3rd day. Before we were
Bali and tomorrow we have to go back.'

Detak : 'What do you think about the traditional games competed today?'

Ms S : 'I am very interested! This game (Besei Kambe) is very unique and I have never see
this before anywhere. Besei Kambe shows the strength, spirit of competition and battle.'

Detak : 'Would you like to try the game?'

Ms S : 'No,no, no. For now I will just watch. Maybe next time.'

Detak : 'What do you think about the tourism in Central Kalimantan?'

Ms S : 'This is a lovely place. I like to see the culture. Unfortunately we have to go back
tomorrow. Next time, I would like to comeback and see the culture again and seeing Orangutans in Tanjung Puting as well.'

Detak : 'What do you think about the people?'

Ms S : 'Yes, lovely people! They are very friendly! They have unique culture. Congratulations!'

Home industry rattan weaving

In the tiny riverside village of Jabiren, older women keep alive the art of rattan weaving. Using the natural motifs of water plants, with curling leaves, and striking geometric designs, coloured with natural dyes, these beautifully woven mats have a long tradition in Central Kalimantan.

Rattan grows prolifically here, and it is said this region produces some of the best rattan in the world. Cleaned and processed manually in simple factories, the rattan canes, sulphur dried to a soft gold colour in lengths of about 6m, are the starting point for these weavers. Using simple tools, the canes are spliced into narrow shreds, some are dyed, and the weaving process starts.

Using a bench seat, or the living room floor, these works of art grow over about a month into the typical large floor mats, so often used here for seating and sometimes sleeping.

The Swiss Church at Mandomai

Swiss Protestant missionaries built this Church in 1807 with local people, who they had trained as carpenters.

Made in a traditional glass town in Germany, the magnificent stained glass window is one of only 2 in the world. The other one is in Brazil.

The carpentry school, located behind the Church, was established in 1946, when it was clear that the wood working skills of the people were of a very high standard, and could be developed even further by training. Working by traditional methods, this workshop produces high quality cabinets, tables and chairs for the local and export markets.

The Spirit of Borneo - private charter boat

This boat built in the iconic 'ulin' or ironwood from Central Kalimatan, was constructed last year in the southern Kalimantan port city of Banjarmasin.

Comfortably accommodating 6 guests in 2 cabins and a bunk area below, a sitting/dining area is inside and covered bench seats on the stern. Above on the roof is the breeze deck, where from the shaded canopy you can enjoy the passing parade on the river.

A cook joins voyages and prepares daily fresh, delicious cuisine, served in style.

Buntuoi Longhouse

The longhouse at the tiny riverside village of Buntuoi, south of Pulang Pisau was built in1870 and is still inhabited by the ancestors of the family who built it.

Perched high on 10 feet tall 'ulin' or ironwood tree trunks, the longhouse is entered up the age old niched pole ladder. First room entered is the guest and entertainment room, where traditional musical instruments are kept - the gongs, bongos and stringed 'kecapis'.

Past the living quarters and store areas are the dining area and finally, at the end of the longhouse, on an outdoor platform, are the kitchen and bathroom. The stove is a simple fire grate, with chopped wood drying overhead.

Out front, the bones of ancestors lie in the 'sandung', accompanied by the spirit boat, the Banama Tingang, which takes the released souls to the Dayak heaven.

The Rahai'i pangun regularly calls at Buntuoi on its dry season route. Guests do a tour of the longhouse and then stroll through this charming village.

New dry season route opens on the Kahayan River

At the height of the dry season now, the river levels north of Palangkaraya have dropped so low, the Rahai'i Pangun can no longer navigate them.

Travelling south is a fascinating experience on the Kahayan River, which is tidal all the way to Palangkaraya, over 200 klm from the sea as the river winds. Twice daily tides rise and fall among the locally named Jingka 'mangroves', thickly lining the river banks from Tumbang Nusa to the town of Pulang Pisau. Village stilt houses bare their legs and then lose them again as the tides flow swiftly along the deep river waters.

Among the animals coming inland on the tides are fresh water crocodiles, already in numbers in the mangroves at the mouth of the river. Safe among the dense Jingkas, the females are now seeking quiet places to lay their eggs.

Visiting the villages along the route, meeting the people and having an insight into their lives beside this constantly changing river is an experience not easily forgotten.