Journeys in and around Palangkaraya and Central Kalimantan with prose snapshots and photographic essays.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
Independence Day in Tundai village
17th August Independence Day in Indonesia is always celebrated with great gusto. During our recent cruise, we happened to visit Tundai on Independence Day, and greatly enjoyed the Besei Kambe competition. This event pits 2 teams of 2 paddlers rowing in opposite directions in the same canoe. Causing great hilarity in all the on lookers, the competitors nevertheless put everything into their performance.
The celebrations, the biggest ever in the village, were covered by a reporter from the local Palangkaraya broadsheet, Detak. This is what they said :
On the celebration of Independence Day last week, the tiny village of Tundai held the biggest celebration ever in the village. Many traditional games were competed such as Besei Tali (tug of war), Bese Kambe (canoe paddling), Sepak Sawut (fireball) and art performance on the stage.
This event was not only attracted the local people’s enthusiasm but also foreign tourists.
We interviewed an Italian Tourist, Ms. S who came to visit Kalimantan together with her husband. They are accompanied by Ms. Gaye Thavisin, joint owner of the Rahai’i Pangun (a cruise boat operated by Kalimantan Tour Destinations)
Detak : 'Hallo Ms. S, how long have you been in Palangkaraya?'
Ms S : 'This is my first time coming to Kalimantan and now is our 3rd day. Before we were
Bali and tomorrow we have to go back.'
Detak : 'What do you think about the traditional games competed today?'
Ms S : 'I am very interested! This game (Besei Kambe) is very unique and I have never see
this before anywhere. Besei Kambe shows the strength, spirit of competition and battle.'
Detak : 'Would you like to try the game?'
Ms S : 'No,no, no. For now I will just watch. Maybe next time.'
Detak : 'What do you think about the tourism in Central Kalimantan?'
Ms S : 'This is a lovely place. I like to see the culture. Unfortunately we have to go back
tomorrow. Next time, I would like to comeback and see the culture again and seeing Orangutans in Tanjung Puting as well.'
Detak : 'What do you think about the people?'
Ms S : 'Yes, lovely people! They are very friendly! They have unique culture. Congratulations!'
Friday, August 28, 2009
Home industry rattan weaving
In the tiny riverside village of Jabiren, older women keep alive the art of rattan weaving. Using the natural motifs of water plants, with curling leaves, and striking geometric designs, coloured with natural dyes, these beautifully woven mats have a long tradition in Central Kalimantan.
Rattan grows prolifically here, and it is said this region produces some of the best rattan in the world. Cleaned and processed manually in simple factories, the rattan canes, sulphur dried to a soft gold colour in lengths of about 6m, are the starting point for these weavers. Using simple tools, the canes are spliced into narrow shreds, some are dyed, and the weaving process starts.
Using a bench seat, or the living room floor, these works of art grow over about a month into the typical large floor mats, so often used here for seating and sometimes sleeping.
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
The Swiss Church at Mandomai
Swiss Protestant missionaries built this Church in 1807 with local people, who they had trained as carpenters.
Made in a traditional glass town in Germany, the magnificent stained glass window is one of only 2 in the world. The other one is in Brazil.
The carpentry school, located behind the Church, was established in 1946, when it was clear that the wood working skills of the people were of a very high standard, and could be developed even further by training. Working by traditional methods, this workshop produces high quality cabinets, tables and chairs for the local and export markets.
Made in a traditional glass town in Germany, the magnificent stained glass window is one of only 2 in the world. The other one is in Brazil.
The carpentry school, located behind the Church, was established in 1946, when it was clear that the wood working skills of the people were of a very high standard, and could be developed even further by training. Working by traditional methods, this workshop produces high quality cabinets, tables and chairs for the local and export markets.
Labels:
Mandomai,
stained glass window,
wood carving
The Spirit of Borneo - private charter boat
This boat built in the iconic 'ulin' or ironwood from Central Kalimatan, was constructed last year in the southern Kalimantan port city of Banjarmasin.
Comfortably accommodating 6 guests in 2 cabins and a bunk area below, a sitting/dining area is inside and covered bench seats on the stern. Above on the roof is the breeze deck, where from the shaded canopy you can enjoy the passing parade on the river.
A cook joins voyages and prepares daily fresh, delicious cuisine, served in style.
Monday, August 24, 2009
Buntuoi Longhouse
Perched high on 10 feet tall 'ulin' or ironwood tree trunks, the longhouse is entered up the age old niched pole ladder. First room entered is the guest and entertainment room, where traditional musical instruments are kept - the gongs, bongos and stringed 'kecapis'.
Past the living quarters and store areas are the dining area and finally, at the end of the longhouse, on an outdoor platform, are the kitchen and bathroom. The stove is a simple fire grate, with chopped wood drying overhead.
Out front, the bones of ancestors lie in the 'sandung', accompanied by the spirit boat, the Banama Tingang, which takes the released souls to the Dayak heaven.
The Rahai'i pangun regularly calls at Buntuoi on its dry season route. Guests do a tour of the longhouse and then stroll through this charming village.
Labels:
Buntuoi,
gongs,
Kahayan River,
longhouse,
sandungs
Sunday, August 23, 2009
New dry season route opens on the Kahayan River
At the height of the dry season now, the river levels north of Palangkaraya have dropped so low, the Rahai'i Pangun can no longer navigate them.
Travelling south is a fascinating experience on the Kahayan River, which is tidal all the way to Palangkaraya, over 200 klm from the sea as the river winds. Twice daily tides rise and fall among the locally named Jingka 'mangroves', thickly lining the river banks from Tumbang Nusa to the town of Pulang Pisau. Village stilt houses bare their legs and then lose them again as the tides flow swiftly along the deep river waters.
Among the animals coming inland on the tides are fresh water crocodiles, already in numbers in the mangroves at the mouth of the river. Safe among the dense Jingkas, the females are now seeking quiet places to lay their eggs.
Visiting the villages along the route, meeting the people and having an insight into their lives beside this constantly changing river is an experience not easily forgotten.
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