Buntuoi Longhouse

The longhouse at the tiny riverside village of Buntuoi, south of Pulang Pisau was built in1870 and is still inhabited by the ancestors of the family who built it.

Perched high on 10 feet tall 'ulin' or ironwood tree trunks, the longhouse is entered up the age old niched pole ladder. First room entered is the guest and entertainment room, where traditional musical instruments are kept - the gongs, bongos and stringed 'kecapis'.

Past the living quarters and store areas are the dining area and finally, at the end of the longhouse, on an outdoor platform, are the kitchen and bathroom. The stove is a simple fire grate, with chopped wood drying overhead.

Out front, the bones of ancestors lie in the 'sandung', accompanied by the spirit boat, the Banama Tingang, which takes the released souls to the Dayak heaven.

The Rahai'i pangun regularly calls at Buntuoi on its dry season route. Guests do a tour of the longhouse and then stroll through this charming village.

Longhouse by 4WD adventure

Go back in time with us to see a traditional Dayak longhouse. Driving the rain muddied roads in comfortable, new 4 WD vehicles, it can take about 6 hours, depending on the weather.

Along the route we stopped at a riverside village where we saw several canoes being built in the traditional way. First, the craftsman finds the right tree and hollows it out, then forms and burnishes the keel, later adding planks to the side. Finally, it is brightly painted.

After our long trip on muddy roads, the longhouse village put on a welcome ceremony, and later sang and danced. Climbing up the notched tree trunk, which serves as the staircase, we found our simple rooms and strung up mosquito nets. The longhouse is made of huge ulin or ironwood posts, and the walls of bark. Power is limited to a few hours at night.

While our cook prepared supper, we enjoyed animated conversations with the local people, keen to get to know more about their guests.

Early morning our local guide arranged a trek through a rubber jungle, including wading through peat coloured streams, and watching as the latex oozed out of the bark into bamboo sections.

Exploring the village's outstanding carvings and sandungs, or bone houses, and then visiting the kaharingan, or traditional religion temple, was a unique experience. Invited by locals to attend a ceremony to send some children off to the capital for higher education, we had truly engaged in their lives.