Venturing to the Upper Kahayan longhouses

Lebaran holiday in Indonesia, what perfect time for us working here to escape the tiny city of Palangkaraya and head for the 'real' Borneo jungle and the old Tumbang Korik longhouse.

Distant and isolated as ever, it takes a combination of bumpy car rides, noisy local 'klotok' canoes and sacks full of patience, flat tyres, breakdowns and racing rapids to get there.

Setting off up the Kahayan River from Tumbang Mirih, we turned off on the Hampatung tributary. Stopping en route at a Dayak tiwah ceremony in full swing in a tiny village, we were thrown straight into another world. At Tumbang Korik, we slept in the very longhouse where tribal reps had gathered after walking from all over Borneo to meet 130 years ago to iron out a deal with Dutch missionaries to stop head hunting. We lay on those ancient boards, watching daylight twinkle through the uneven walls, living from dawn to dusk by the river.

Following our parang machete wielding guide, we were swallowed by a tall forest. Stumbling up and down hills, over creeks and marshes, listening to the whir of the great black burung endang or hornbill overhead and the shrill calls of smaller birds, we passed through in the half light.

Our last day was a long klotok ride to another longhouse over on the Kahayan River, a re-construction of the original place of the signing ceremony at Tumbang Anoi - it was considered too dangerous to bring the Dutch visitors up our rock strewn river which was named after the many wrecks littering its course. We still saw lots!

And the finale, we rode the Kahayan River through the narrow gorge near the Dayak holy rock of Batu Suli . Feeling alive but badly sun burnt, we climbed up the steps to our losmen in Tewah. No comparison with the longhouse!

Sigi 'sandungs'

Brilliantly coloured and ornate traditional sandungs are still being erected in the tiny village of Sigi. Once the home of Temanggungs or local princes, Sigi has recently relocated from its original site on the banks of the Kahayan river, to be near the new road heading north from Palangkaraya to Kuala Kurun and beyond.

Carved by the artist from Tumbang Manggu, these sandungs show a visual vibrancy and raw energy in the subjects and in the depiction of the vivid spirit life so indicative of Dayak traditions in Central Kalimantan.

Buntuoi Longhouse

The longhouse at the tiny riverside village of Buntuoi, south of Pulang Pisau was built in1870 and is still inhabited by the ancestors of the family who built it.

Perched high on 10 feet tall 'ulin' or ironwood tree trunks, the longhouse is entered up the age old niched pole ladder. First room entered is the guest and entertainment room, where traditional musical instruments are kept - the gongs, bongos and stringed 'kecapis'.

Past the living quarters and store areas are the dining area and finally, at the end of the longhouse, on an outdoor platform, are the kitchen and bathroom. The stove is a simple fire grate, with chopped wood drying overhead.

Out front, the bones of ancestors lie in the 'sandung', accompanied by the spirit boat, the Banama Tingang, which takes the released souls to the Dayak heaven.

The Rahai'i pangun regularly calls at Buntuoi on its dry season route. Guests do a tour of the longhouse and then stroll through this charming village.

Museum Balanga

The rainy season is still with us, and while it is my favourite season as it makes the rivers high and the temperature pleasantly fresh, constant rain can make sightseeing a bit of a drag. But, on the other hand, it is a good day for the Museum!

The Palangka Raya Museum Balanga is laid out in such a way that the visitor moves one by one from the artifacts and customs of birth, childhood, and marriage to death. There are carved birthing stools and inclined benches, slings and hammocks for babies and the delicatedly sequined backdrops and clothing for weddings. An intriguing miniature collection of sandung or bonehouses flanked by their attendant carved guardians is next to the rows of gongs and musical instruments that always accompany traditional rituals. A stunning series of tall, weathered carvings stand together in a group around a Kaharingan altar, an integral part of the faith of the indigenous Dayaks. Collections of masks, mandau or swords and highly prized traded procelain pots and vessels make this small collection a fascinating insight to the unique local culture.