Kalimantan canoes

Rivers are highways in Kalimantan, and to negotiate them, there are different canoes.

Jukungs are tiny dug out canoes that are used normally by one person. Low in the water, it takes both confidence and a sure sense of balance to ride over the wakes of larger passing canoes. Often used by women to check their fishing lines or nets, the jukungs are paddled. The trick is in the expert turning of the wrists. Paddles, though simply made from a plank, can expertly maneuver the small, heavy craft.

Alkons are larger dug out canoes, powered by 2-stroke engines, and have many uses for people living on the river banks. Used for transport, fishing and just getting about, kids from a very early age are adept at using and operating engines, and will obligingly help stranded guests.

Klotoks are the largest canoe. The keel is fashioned from one tree, felled, carved and burnished. Later planks are added along the length. Engines used are often car engines, without the mufflers, moving fast along the rivers. These are formidable canoes, that can carry a dozen passengers and travel long distances.

On our last trip we used alkons in the mirror perfect waters of the lakes.

Sigi 'sandungs'

Brilliantly coloured and ornate traditional sandungs are still being erected in the tiny village of Sigi. Once the home of Temanggungs or local princes, Sigi has recently relocated from its original site on the banks of the Kahayan river, to be near the new road heading north from Palangkaraya to Kuala Kurun and beyond.

Carved by the artist from Tumbang Manggu, these sandungs show a visual vibrancy and raw energy in the subjects and in the depiction of the vivid spirit life so indicative of Dayak traditions in Central Kalimantan.

Banjarmasin - river explorations

Banjarmasin and Banjar Baru, side by side, are centres for the Province of South Kalimantan. Named the Venice of Kalimantan, Banjarmasin is built over the 2 deltas of the Barito and Matapura Rivers. A network of more than 60 canals criss cross the city, and are highways for river traffic and also give the venue for small farmers to sell their produce.

The floating market on the Barito in the early morning jostles with women dressed in their colourful sarongs and headscarves, carrying loads of garden produce, rattan baskets and sweet hot cake making. As the swft river pushes us all down river, intense bargaining is carried on among the gossiping, bartering and paddling.

Kalimantan means 'river of diamonds', and gems which are washed from the mountainous hinterland and lodged under the wide delta plains are mined at Matapura, a short distance from Banjarmasin.

Travelling further into the hinterland, a little known and vast marshy area is home to buffalo herders who keep their animals in stalls above the wet seasaon marshes. Daily, the buffaloes swim off to graze among the maze of canals. At dusk, the herder calmly poles through the area, calling his animals home.

This is another world from the bustling river market, irridescent and timeless.

HRH Prince Henrik of Denmark relaxes on the Rahai'i Pangun

His Royal Highness Prince Henrik, Prince Consort of Denmark, joined us on the Rahai'i Pangun for a morning cruise from Tangkiling to see orangutans on the river island, Pulau Kaja, and to continue further up stream to visit the village of Kanarakan.

The first orangutan release island on the Rungan River established by the Borneo Orangutan Foundation (BOS), Pulau Kaja is temporary home now to about 50 young, rehabilitated orangutans. Carefully watched over and fed daily by the BOS foundation, headed in Central Kalimantan by Dane Lone Droscher-Nielsen, these orangutans are sighted in the lush vegetation of the island. Lone gave His Royal Highness and an accompanying party of project donors from Denmark, detailed information about the rehabilitation program on the island.

Continuing on up river to Kanarakan, HRH Prince Henrik and the party were given a warm welcome in the village by a troup of traditional musicians and a 'karangut' singer, as children of the school danced. Warmly welcomed, the party took a short walk into the village to see more displays and exhibitions. Friendships made and the fun of the farewell 'manasay' dance are seen clearly in the photo records!

February cruising

Heavy rains clear the air and sunshine sparkles on the water as the Rahai'i Pangun cuts a path through the perfect reflections.
Guests soak up the views and the sunshine as the boat slowly moves on down river.
Passing orangutan islands. as the sun fades on a perfect day.

Rainy season cruise

The generous January rains have filled the rivers in swirling, eddying currents, over-running banks and rushing into the quiet lakes. Leaves on the forest clad river banks sparkle in the sun which soon follows the sharp down pours. Its spring here and the trees are a-flower. Horn bill fledglings are heard calling in the trees and proboscis monkeys appear in large troups rummaging in the trees for fruit. An unlucky one, surprised by the Rahai'i Pangun, missed his footing and plunged in the water.

Our guest, at the end of her cruise, chose an unusual method of transport home!

A film of the Rahai'i Pangun Cruise!

Have a look at this link http://www.youtube.com/thevaughnbrothers
for a taste of this adventure cruise in real Borneo capturing the mood of these eternal rivers and jungles.

Here is photographer Bjorn Vaughn in a canoe filming guests joining the Rahai'i Pangun's off boat canoe trip through flooded lakes of Danau Dapur. Filming amid the remarkable reflections in these coal black waters is a picture in itself!

Bjorn and his brother, Director Pierce Vaughn, have created a film redolent of the jungle lined river, the bright splashes of colour in the cultural performance and the sense of under stated luxury on board.